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Here is the first draft of the child’s easel that I am planning on building for my godson. It is a basic design. I am still thinking about the art supply storage bin. I am leaning toward building a tray below the art drawing board. May putting a little bit of a lip around it so that it hold the pencils, crayons, markers, water color paints, etc. I am considering a lip height between 2 to 3 1/2 inches.

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I need to find a supplier for the ‘locking arms’ that will be mounted on either side of the easel to keep it locked open. What I am looking for is the same / similar device that is used on a step ladder to keep it locked open. Hopefully I can find it in one of the local home improvement stores.
So, what do you think of the rough draft of the plan? Feel free to leave comments about the plan, improvements, and suggestions.
Construction notes:
The legs are beveled at 75 degrees. On the chalk board side of the easel, the legs are attached to the cap with 1 1/4 inch screws. The art board side the legs are attached with 1 1/2 inch wide butt hinges.
The legs are 3/4 inch thick stock by 2 inches wide by 48 inches long.
The tray is is constructed from 1/2″ thick stock. The front and back panels are 2 1/2 inches by 22 7/8 inches. The bottom is 2 inches by 21 7/8 inches. The end panel is 2 inches by 2 1/2 inches. The tray is attached to the easel with screws that are driven in from the back side of the leg into the tray. Counter sink the screw head.
Use a 1 inch thick dowel rod to hold the role of art paper. Use a forstner 1 inch drill bit to cut the recess for the dowel rod. The recess needs to be 3/8 inch deep. Take a chissel and cut out the top side so that the dowel rod can be dropped in with the roll of paper.
The chalk board side of the easel is 1/4 inch birch plywood. I found chalk board paint, spray can and brush on, that can be applied to just about any solid surface and turn it into a chalk board. I used the spray can version so that I would not have brush strokes in the chalk board.
Cut the plywood to size. Sand the plywood smooth with 280 grit sand paper. I used a random orbital sander. Then spray on three coats of the chalk board paint allow each coat to thoroughly dry. Once the paint is completely dried continue with the assembly of the frame and insert the chalk board into the frame.
On mine I build the frame with the plywood in the frame and then applied the chalk board paint. What a pain that was! I had to mask off all of the frame so that it didn’t get painted with the chalk board paint! The other problem is that over time the plywood shifted just a little bit and you could see a faint line of unfinished plywood exposed at the edge of the frame. Had I followed the steps above all you would have seen is chalk board.
Oh well, learn from my mistakes.
I stained it with mahogany oil based stain. The top coat was three coats of Tung oil. Tung oil provides a very deep finish. The nice thing is that it is easy to repair when kids accidentally scratch the finish. Sign up for my free weekly wood finishing tips newsletter. It covers a wide range of wood finishing tips including how to get a super smooth finish without using steel wool.
Update:
I have successfully found the locking hinges at the local big box home improvement center. At my store they placed them in the same aisle as the picture frame hardware and hinges and cabinet hardware.
I made this easel for my god-son as a Christmas present. He loved it!