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	<title>Comments for Wood Working Hobbyist</title>
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	<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com</link>
	<description>For the weekend wood chewer</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:11:35 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>Comment on Prefinished Plywood - Where To Buy Cabinet Grade Prefinished Plywood by toni</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/10/27/prefinished-plywood-where-to-buy-cabinet-grade-prefinished-plywood/#comment-11893</link>
		<dc:creator>toni</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 13:00:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/?p=142#comment-11893</guid>
		<description>Thanks for the great source of cabinet grade plywood!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks for the great source of cabinet grade plywood!</p>
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		<title>Comment on How Do I Apply A Lacquer Finish To My Wood Working Project? by toni</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/11/15/how-do-i-apply-a-lacquer-finish-to-my-wood-working-project/#comment-11892</link>
		<dc:creator>toni</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 12:59:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/?p=162#comment-11892</guid>
		<description>Hi Cheryl,

Have you read the article &lt;a href="http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/10/21/how-to-preserve-family-pictures-in-a-table-top/" rel="nofollow"&gt;How To Preserve Family Pictures In A Table Top&lt;/a&gt;? It talks about creating a finished table top that has photos embedded in an epoxy resin. The Kleer Koat epoxy resin is photo paper friendly.

Lacquer is a strong solvent that will dissolve many types of plastics. I am pretty sure that the lacquer thinner will damage the photograph's image.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Cheryl,</p>
<p>Have you read the article <a href="http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/10/21/how-to-preserve-family-pictures-in-a-table-top/" rel="nofollow">How To Preserve Family Pictures In A Table Top</a>? It talks about creating a finished table top that has photos embedded in an epoxy resin. The Kleer Koat epoxy resin is photo paper friendly.</p>
<p>Lacquer is a strong solvent that will dissolve many types of plastics. I am pretty sure that the lacquer thinner will damage the photograph&#8217;s image.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How Do I Apply A Lacquer Finish To My Wood Working Project? by cheryl</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/11/15/how-do-i-apply-a-lacquer-finish-to-my-wood-working-project/#comment-11891</link>
		<dc:creator>cheryl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 12:44:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/?p=162#comment-11891</guid>
		<description>i need to lacquer photos for my sons school to a tabletop  help got to do soon thanks for any tips ... Do i have to cover the photos with anything first ?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>i need to lacquer photos for my sons school to a tabletop  help got to do soon thanks for any tips &#8230; Do i have to cover the photos with anything first ?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Prefinished Plywood - Where To Buy Cabinet Grade Prefinished Plywood by Jon</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2008/10/27/prefinished-plywood-where-to-buy-cabinet-grade-prefinished-plywood/#comment-11722</link>
		<dc:creator>Jon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 04 Jan 2009 04:02:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/?p=142#comment-11722</guid>
		<description>If you live in Los Angeles Anderson Plywood carries this product. I've finisned two of three kitchen cabinets as part of phase one of my kitchen remodel. They have several grades (shop, B and A). My cabinets will be finished maple. I'm using the grade A plywood for the exterior surfaces. It is beautiful. One side has a very right and regular grain. The other side has more character. You get your choice with this product.

Also, even the shop grade plywood is of the highest quality. It is very easy to work with and fits nicely into rabits and dados.

Anderson Plywood can tell you who their supplier is. The supplier can tell you where their product is carried. Call them at (310) 397-8229.

  http://www.andersonplywood.com/

(I am not afiliiated with Anderson Plywood except as a very satisfied customer.)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you live in Los Angeles Anderson Plywood carries this product. I&#8217;ve finisned two of three kitchen cabinets as part of phase one of my kitchen remodel. They have several grades (shop, B and A). My cabinets will be finished maple. I&#8217;m using the grade A plywood for the exterior surfaces. It is beautiful. One side has a very right and regular grain. The other side has more character. You get your choice with this product.</p>
<p>Also, even the shop grade plywood is of the highest quality. It is very easy to work with and fits nicely into rabits and dados.</p>
<p>Anderson Plywood can tell you who their supplier is. The supplier can tell you where their product is carried. Call them at (310) 397-8229.</p>
<p>  <a href="http://www.andersonplywood.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.andersonplywood.com/</a></p>
<p>(I am not afiliiated with Anderson Plywood except as a very satisfied customer.)</p>
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		<title>Comment on How do I align my Ryobi BT3000 / BT3100 table saw? Part 1 by frank DiFabio</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2006/12/14/how-do-i-align-my-ryobi-bt3000-bt3100-table-saw-part-1/#comment-11569</link>
		<dc:creator>frank DiFabio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jan 2009 15:44:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2006/12/14/how-do-i-align-my-ryobi-bt3000-bt3100-table-saw-part-1/#comment-11569</guid>
		<description>I owen the31000 Ryoby, table saw. An I am having trouble with the sliding mitertable. It moves from right to left when cutting a peice of stock.I try making a justments but it still dos'nts work.What can I do.?????!!!!!!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I owen the31000 Ryoby, table saw. An I am having trouble with the sliding mitertable. It moves from right to left when cutting a peice of stock.I try making a justments but it still dos&#8217;nts work.What can I do.?????!!!!!!</p>
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		<title>Comment on Ryobi BT-3000 helpful sites by frank DiFabio</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2006/11/16/ryobi-bt-3000-helpful-sites/#comment-11568</link>
		<dc:creator>frank DiFabio</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 01 Jan 2009 15:32:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2006/11/16/ryobi-bt-3000-helpful-sites/#comment-11568</guid>
		<description>I owen the 31000 Ryobi table saw an Iam having with the slidingmiter table it moves from right to left when cross cutting a peice of stock. I try making ajust ments. But still does not work. Is there any sulation to this .?????????</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I owen the 31000 Ryobi table saw an Iam having with the slidingmiter table it moves from right to left when cross cutting a peice of stock. I try making ajust ments. But still does not work. Is there any sulation to this .?????????</p>
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		<title>Comment on Freud Diablo 5/8” stacked Dado DD208 by toni</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/02/freud-diablo-58%e2%80%9d-stacked-dado-dd208/#comment-11393</link>
		<dc:creator>toni</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2008 03:11:42 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/02/freud-diablo-58%e2%80%9d-stacked-dado-dd208/#comment-11393</guid>
		<description>Sam,

The method that I follow in setting up the stacked dado is to put in the cutters that will give me the thickness that I expect along with the outer cutting blade. Then I check the thickness with my tape measure. If it isn't the thickness that I am wanting, I will add or remove shims and/or chipper knives.  I never trust the built in measurements, have made one too many mistakes because I did not verify it with the tape measure.

My ryobi BT-3000 has a built in tape measure in the fence rail. It looks nice, but I don't trust it. I always check the width of a cut by running the tape measure from the fence to the fence facing outer edge tooth of the saw blade.

The uncut section makes me think that you have too many shims stacked up in one spot so that their is a gap between the chipper knives. I set the chipper next to the cutter saw blade so that the chipper knife is in the channel of the blade just slightly. This way it produces a clean cut. If I need to use multiple chipper knives, then I stagger them so that they are at least forty to sixty degree apart. I place the shims between them so that there is still a little bit over overlap between the chipper knives to prevent an uncut strip.

I hope this helps.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Sam,</p>
<p>The method that I follow in setting up the stacked dado is to put in the cutters that will give me the thickness that I expect along with the outer cutting blade. Then I check the thickness with my tape measure. If it isn&#8217;t the thickness that I am wanting, I will add or remove shims and/or chipper knives.  I never trust the built in measurements, have made one too many mistakes because I did not verify it with the tape measure.</p>
<p>My ryobi BT-3000 has a built in tape measure in the fence rail. It looks nice, but I don&#8217;t trust it. I always check the width of a cut by running the tape measure from the fence to the fence facing outer edge tooth of the saw blade.</p>
<p>The uncut section makes me think that you have too many shims stacked up in one spot so that their is a gap between the chipper knives. I set the chipper next to the cutter saw blade so that the chipper knife is in the channel of the blade just slightly. This way it produces a clean cut. If I need to use multiple chipper knives, then I stagger them so that they are at least forty to sixty degree apart. I place the shims between them so that there is still a little bit over overlap between the chipper knives to prevent an uncut strip.</p>
<p>I hope this helps.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Freud Diablo 5/8” stacked Dado DD208 by Sam Keenon</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/02/freud-diablo-58%e2%80%9d-stacked-dado-dd208/#comment-11391</link>
		<dc:creator>Sam Keenon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 29 Dec 2008 02:57:38 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/02/freud-diablo-58%e2%80%9d-stacked-dado-dd208/#comment-11391</guid>
		<description>I just bought a DD208.  I set it up per the card for a 3/8" dado and got a 1/2" one.  Set it up for 1/4" and got almost 3/8".  Since the shims are not labeled I miked them and found none to match the shims mentioned on the card.  Cutting a 3/8" dado leaves an uncut area at the center of the cut.  

I have contacted Freud customer relations from their website.  It will be interesting to see what they have to say.

As it stands right now, my 20 year old Sears adjustable does a better job and cost less than half what this thng did.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just bought a DD208.  I set it up per the card for a 3/8&#8243; dado and got a 1/2&#8243; one.  Set it up for 1/4&#8243; and got almost 3/8&#8243;.  Since the shims are not labeled I miked them and found none to match the shims mentioned on the card.  Cutting a 3/8&#8243; dado leaves an uncut area at the center of the cut.  </p>
<p>I have contacted Freud customer relations from their website.  It will be interesting to see what they have to say.</p>
<p>As it stands right now, my 20 year old Sears adjustable does a better job and cost less than half what this thng did.</p>
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		<title>Comment on What is Medium density fiberboard (MDF)? by toni</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-11343</link>
		<dc:creator>toni</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Dec 2008 03:48:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-11343</guid>
		<description>Welcome! Feel free to comment on any of the articles and discussions. If there is a topic that you would like me to write about &lt;a href="http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/contactus" rel="nofollow"&gt;contact us&lt;/a&gt; button on the left hand side and let me know.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Welcome! Feel free to comment on any of the articles and discussions. If there is a topic that you would like me to write about <a href="http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/contactus" rel="nofollow">contact us</a> button on the left hand side and let me know.</p>
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		<title>Comment on What is Medium density fiberboard (MDF)? by evefepSor</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-11342</link>
		<dc:creator>evefepSor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 28 Dec 2008 03:39:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-11342</guid>
		<description>Hi to all
I am new to this forum. I hope to hav discussions with good people here
thanks....</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi to all<br />
I am new to this forum. I hope to hav discussions with good people here<br />
thanks&#8230;.</p>
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		<title>Comment on What is Medium density fiberboard (MDF)? by BlueliaRime</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-10734</link>
		<dc:creator>BlueliaRime</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2008 00:55:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/12/16/what-is-medium-density-fiberboard-mdf/#comment-10734</guid>
		<description>Hi people 
 
As a fresh www.wood-working-hobby.com user i just want to say hi to everyone else who uses this board &#60;:-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi people </p>
<p>As a fresh <a href="http://www.wood-working-hobby.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com</a> user i just want to say hi to everyone else who uses this board &lt;:-)</p>
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		<title>Comment on Why is my bench top planner denting the planned wood? by Ryan</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/04/02/why-is-my-bench-top-planner-denting-the-planned-wood/#comment-9453</link>
		<dc:creator>Ryan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 01 Dec 2008 00:25:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/04/02/why-is-my-bench-top-planner-denting-the-planned-wood/#comment-9453</guid>
		<description>In response to Dick Moore.  The boards chipping off near the ends is known as snipe.  What usually causes this is the support on the infeed or outfeed sides of the planer.  You have to support the wood to keep it from tilting and hitting the last set of knives on the planer.  I realize your planer probably came with small infeed and outfeed tables, but you will probably have to built some of your own extensions that are longer.  On my planer I actually removed the factory tables and made some of my own about six feet long with fomica on the tops and an mdf core so everything will slide out smooth</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In response to Dick Moore.  The boards chipping off near the ends is known as snipe.  What usually causes this is the support on the infeed or outfeed sides of the planer.  You have to support the wood to keep it from tilting and hitting the last set of knives on the planer.  I realize your planer probably came with small infeed and outfeed tables, but you will probably have to built some of your own extensions that are longer.  On my planer I actually removed the factory tables and made some of my own about six feet long with fomica on the tops and an mdf core so everything will slide out smooth</p>
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		<title>Comment on Distressed wood finishing: How to make new look old (part 1) by Willis</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/06/19/distressed-wood-finishing-how-to-make-new-look-old-part-1/#comment-9250</link>
		<dc:creator>Willis</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Nov 2008 16:03:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/06/19/distressed-wood-finishing-how-to-make-new-look-old-part-1/#comment-9250</guid>
		<description>some methods of glazing I have found usefull...you can apply the glaze with cheese cloth leaving it on thick. Then you take a clean peice of cheese cloth and make a loose ball out of it and lightly wipe the glaze off always wipeing with the grain of the wood. Some of the glaze will be left in any of the distressing such as worm holes or scratches. Another thing you can do is to take a china bristle brush and tape the bristles leaving only about 1 inch of the bristles exposed at the end. Now you apply your glaze with the cheese cloth then quickly drag the glaze with the brush, this will give you a softer look with the glaze. Just remember to wipe the brush with a clean rag once and a while to keep the bristles somewhat clean. I hope this helps anyone out there......</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>some methods of glazing I have found usefull&#8230;you can apply the glaze with cheese cloth leaving it on thick. Then you take a clean peice of cheese cloth and make a loose ball out of it and lightly wipe the glaze off always wipeing with the grain of the wood. Some of the glaze will be left in any of the distressing such as worm holes or scratches. Another thing you can do is to take a china bristle brush and tape the bristles leaving only about 1 inch of the bristles exposed at the end. Now you apply your glaze with the cheese cloth then quickly drag the glaze with the brush, this will give you a softer look with the glaze. Just remember to wipe the brush with a clean rag once and a while to keep the bristles somewhat clean. I hope this helps anyone out there&#8230;&#8230;</p>
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		<title>Comment on Wood Finishing Free Weekly Newsletter by Wood Working Hobbyist &#187; Child’s Easel plan – first draft</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/wood-finishing-free-weekly-newsletter/#comment-8816</link>
		<dc:creator>Wood Working Hobbyist &#187; Child’s Easel plan – first draft</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 18 Nov 2008 13:27:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/?page_id=165#comment-8816</guid>
		<description>[...] with stain. The top coat was three coats of Tung oil. It turned out really nice. Sign up for my weekly wood finishing newsletter. It is packed full of finishing tips including how to get [...]</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>[...] with stain. The top coat was three coats of Tung oil. It turned out really nice. Sign up for my weekly wood finishing newsletter. It is packed full of finishing tips including how to get [...]</p>
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		<title>Comment on Burial Flag folded display case plan by Abe Dadian</title>
		<link>http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/08/burial-flag-folded-display-case-plan/#comment-8694</link>
		<dc:creator>Abe Dadian</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 16 Nov 2008 14:33:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.wood-working-hobby.com/2007/01/06/burial-flag-folded-display-case-plan/#comment-8694</guid>
		<description>It's nice to know people like you are available on the net.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>It&#8217;s nice to know people like you are available on the net.</p>
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