Friday, June 22nd 2007
posted @ 10:37 am in [ staining / finishing ]
This post is part two of the distressed wood finishing technique. Learn an easy to follow six step process to make newly created furniture look like it has been around for decades.
Step 3: Sealing the door
Apply a sanding sealer to the door. A vinyl or latex sealer can be used. Following the manufacture’s directions and allow ample drying time.
Step 4: Sanding
Sand the door smooth with 320 grit sand paper. Be careful not to sand through the sealer and sand off the stain. (more…)
Tuesday, June 19th 2007
posted @ 10:34 am in [ staining / finishing ]
When done right distressed wood finishing will result in a finished piece that people will think is decades old, when in fact it is a newly finished piece. At first it may seem like distressed finishing is too complicated or takes too long. Nothing could be further from the truth. The process is broken down into six straight forward steps.
This technique works well with solid wood furniture. However, I don’t recommend attempting to apply this technique to pieces made from plywood or any type of laminate pieces. The veneer is too thin and will most likely break off and really look bad. (more…)
Friday, June 15th 2007
posted @ 8:16 am in [ Bandsaw -
Lathe ]
Welcome back as we continue discussing the anatomy of a blandsaw blade. With a better understanding you will be able to select the right bandsaw blade for the job at hand.
Hook angle
Is the angle between a line drawn parallel to the front edge of the tooth and a line drawn perpendicular to the back of the bandsaw blade. The larger the hook angle the more the blade attempts to pull the material into the blade. In effect the tooth acts like a chisel by trying to split out the wood fibers.
With smaller hook angles or even a negative hook angles the tooth acts more like a plow or scraper. When cutting dense hardwoods or very knotty wood these saw blades are ideally suited for the job. (more…)
Wednesday, June 13th 2007
posted @ 4:16 am in [ Bandsaw ]
Bandsaw blades come in a plethora of styles, number of teeth per inch, alloys and tooth shape. For the home woodworker which of the many different types of bandsaw blades is the best one to use when cutting hard wood lumber?
Anatomy of a bandsaw blade
Let’s first start out discussing the anatomy of a bandsaw blade. Unlike a circular saw blade, a bandsaw blade must be able to with stand being flexed repeatedly while being used. Bandsaw blades are made from spring steel. Steel that has the ability to flex a certain amount and then bounce back to its original shape. Stretch the blade beyond the certain amount will cause the tooth to fail (rip off the blade) or the blade to break. Both are bad for the operator of the bandsaw. (more…)