Thursday, November 30th 2006
posted @ 9:25 am in [ DeWalt -
Tools ]
After a few years of using a quarter sheet vibrating sander, I wanted to step up to a random orbital sander. After evaluating the various random orbital sanders I settled on the DeWalt DW421. The DeWalt DW421 uses 5”, eight hole hook and loop sanding disks.
Overall the sander is solidly built with a good fit and finish. It provides a very smooth operation with minimal noise level and vibration. The sander weights in, by my scale, around 3 pounds. The palm grip of the sander has a good comfortable feel to it. The motor is strong and durable. The orbiting sanding pad is made of thick high quality rubber with hook and loop facing. It comes with a 6 foot long, 18 AWG double insulated electric cord that is securely attached to the sander. I have accidentally tested this more than once.
The real test of a random orbital sander is how well does it work and how hard is it on me? The sander is balanced very well. When running it feels comfortable in my hand with minimal vibration. The sander is heavy enough to sand with its own weight, all that is necessary is to guide it to where you want it to sand.
Tip: Random orbital sanders work best with minimal pressure. If you press down too hard it can cause the orbiting pad to slow down or stop orbiting. So, use as little pressure as needed to get the sander to sand.
I have found that I was able to work on horizontal, vertical and overhead surfaces with equal ease and minimal fatigue.
The biggest disadvantage is the dust collection system. It is designed with a highly touted ‘Controlled Finishing System’ which is basically a small dust collection bag attached to the rear of the sander. The bag works ok in collecting dust. However, the sander still kicks out a fair amount of dust while sanding. So be cautioned, always wear safety goggles and a respirator when operating this tool!
Removing the dust collection bag exposes a dust collection port that you can hook up to a shop vac or dust collector. The design is for the hose to slip over the dust collection port. There is no locking feature to keep the hose connected, so there is a pretty good chance that the hose will slip off during use.
My other frustration is the CFS gasket. This is a large gasket that fits between the sander’s orbital pad and the body. Gasket tends to wear out rather easily, why did they choose to skimp on this component I don’t know. The easiest way to determine if the gasket is worn out, besides a larger that normal cloud of dust when sanding, is orbiting pad’s rotation would accelerate dramatically when not in contact with any surface. An addendum to the owner’s manual attests to this being due to the gasket being worn out.
Replacing the gasket is a fairly straight forward procedure: remove the orbiting pad (held in place with three screws), remove the old gasket and put in the new one, reinstall the orbiting pad. The whole procedure took about fifteen minutes. The gaskets are fairly pricey at $7 each!
Even with these issues, I am very pleased with the DeWalt Random Orbital Palm Sander DW421 and recommend anyone looking to add a random orbital sander to consider this one.
Wednesday, November 29th 2006
posted @ 1:19 pm in [ Ryobi -
Table Saw -
Tools ]
Table saw blades; I never gave them too much thought other than number of teeth, sharpness, and intended application. I have a couple of 10” carbide tipped 40 tooth blades that I use on a regular basis. They cut fairly well with the typical amount of vibration marks on the cut face.
I finally decided to try out the Freud 10” 50 tooth perma-shielded thin kerf saw blade. The blade is coded in the perma-shield coating to reduce the friction on the material as it is being cut. The thin kerf reduces the amount of material the saw blade has to cut out. And the blade has laser cut anti vibration slots. I am wondering how well it will cut and how smooth of a cut it will make.
Wow! What a difference it makes in cutting. When using it in my ryobi BT-3000 table saw, it made the saw perform so much better! I ran a 3/4” red oak through the table saw and the little ryobi felt like I was cutting on a contractor saw.
The Freud TKR906 strikes a nice balance between a cross cut and rip saw blades. It provides a nice smooth cut with very little chatter or vibration marks.
The Freud combination 50 tooth blade is not the ultimate in saw blades; however, for the home woodworker, this saw blade will meet most all of your cutting needs. It is always good practice to keep at least one old crappy, but relatively sharp saw blade, around for the times that you need to cut stock that is impregnated with sand or dirt.
Monday, November 27th 2006
posted @ 10:36 pm in [ Wood Working Project ideas -
Wood Working Projects ]
In a previous post about picture frames I mentioned that I had built a set of picture frames for my wife’s birthday with a close up picture of each of our children. Fast forward a year later and I am looking at the pictures and want to give her an updated set of pictures of the kids. The problem is the original set of picture frames where constructed from purple heart and it will not be easy to replaced the pictures.
I could continue to make picture frames, but eventually I will run out of wall space in our bedroom! So what to do?
I recently purchased raised panel door router bit set. The grove where the raised panel fits in is 1/4” wide, just the right width for the glass, mat, picture and backer. Using mahogany I routed a set of rails and stiles for each frame. I glued and nailed two stiles and the top rail together. The bottom rail I fastened with flat bar strip of metal that I picked up at the local home improvement store.
Anytime I want to replace the pictures all I need to do is remove four screws add slide out the bottom rail!
And by the way, my wife loves the second set of pictures of the kids. With both sets of the pictures next to each other it is neat to see how the kids have changed over the past year.
Saturday, November 25th 2006
posted @ 11:28 am in [ Tools ]
Dove tails, they are a beautiful strong joint. In the old days, it was a test of skill to cut them by hand. Now days with a dove tail jig and a router has a simplified the task of cutting dove tail. But not all dove tail jigs are made the same nor full fill the same needs. There are a few dove tail jigs that I am considering for my home wood shop.
Keller Dovetail System 135-1500 Journeyman DoveTail Jig
This dovetail jig is an economical choice for the beginner or hobbyists doing small to midsize projects. The back-to-back model handles wood 1/8 to 3/4 inches thick of any width with a single template precision-milled from phenolic plate. You have to mill a support board that the jig sits on. The instruction manual details the dimensions of the board.
Rockler Dovetail Jig with Half Blind Dovetail Template
This jig supports cutting half bind and through dove tails. Comes with the plastic dove tail guide, 1/4” shank 14 degree dove tail bit, 7/16” guide bushing. I am not sure for which router bases it will work with. Most likely it will not fit my 2 hp Craftsman router. The jig has easy to use lock down handles and adjustment knobs.
Wednesday, November 22nd 2006
posted @ 10:01 pm in [ Lathe ]
It is Friday afternoon and you have planned a woodworking project this weekend. As soon as you get home you are going to get the trailer and head over to the local home improvement store / hard wood lumber yard. But do you know what you are doing when you are dragging all that weight around behind you?
According to recent studies, if you are like most drivers who use their vehicles to tow, you don’t. You are putting yourself and everyone else on the road at risk.
In 2004, the last year complete figures were available; there were 65,000 trailer accidents that resulted in thousands of injuries and deaths. The most eye opening observation from the study was that most drivers who towed trailers did not know how to properly setup or handle a trailer. Most felt that they did not need to learn critical safety basics such as the proper way to distribute a load on a trailer and how to drive it. About three fourths of all drivers learned via trial and error!
How to properly set up to tow a trailer?
Do a walk around inspection of the trailer and the towing vehicle. Look at and inspect:
· Vehicle hitch
· Trailer attachment points
· Safety chains
· Operation of lights
· Brake controls
· Tires inflated
· Load distribution on the trailer
· Tarp covers
· Tie down straps
How much can I tow with my vehicle and trailer?
Check your vehicle and trailer’s owners manual for the recommended towing capacities. Most manufactures provide specs for recommended gross trailer weights (GTW) that should not be exceeded. Tongue weight should typically be 10% to 15% of GTW. For most home use trailers you can use a bathroom scale to measure the tongue weight.
Loads should be evenly distributed from side to side and about 60% of the total weight should be forward of the axel. Use tie down straps to secure the load and prevent it from shifting or flying off.
Backing up a trailer is a pain in the rear to do. It takes a fair amount of practice to get it down. Assign a helper to help guide and watch out for obstacles.
Tip: Put one hand at the bottom of the wheel and move your hand in the direction that you want the trailer to turn.
Resources
National Association of Trailer Manufactures has a great search feature on their site.
Boat US and Recreational vehicle industry keeps up to date on trailer news, safety, security, and critical issues.
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has a comprehensive trailer towing guide.
Monday, November 20th 2006
posted @ 1:38 pm in [ Wood Working ]
Every wood project results in some amount of saw dust. What to do with it? When I first started my hobby I would through it out in my trash. I knew I could do something better with it than put it in a land fill somewhere.
My father-in-law had built a small mulch bin in his back yard where he put all of his grass clippings and leaves. He built it out of expanded metal scraps. He gave me enough material that I built a 36” x 48” x 30” mulch bin.
I have been putting into it grass clippings, leaves, and saw dust. For the past five years the bin never got over 1/2 capacity, until I started planning the wood for my daughter’s dresser bed. It is amazing that amount of wood shavings that a planer will produce! About half way through the planning the material for the bed the mulch bin reached, no exceeded capacity. I ended up throwing away the rest of the shavings. I don’t like doing that, but I had no where else to put the shavings to decompose them.
I have been actively working the mulch bin this summer to help speed the decomposition of the material. Come next summer I should have a nice amount of compost material for the flower beds.
Thursday, November 16th 2006
posted @ 9:48 pm in [ Ryobi -
Table Saw -
Tools ]
This post is more about Ryobi bt-3000 sites that I have found helpful in maintaining and modifying my table saw.
Ryobi BT-3000 modifications – contains a very detailed description about how to deal with the shim problem. If you haven’t already had to face this, you most likely will an unfortunate design problem of the BT-3000. In the BT-3100 Ryobi has changed the shim design.
He has some very interesting under the saw storage solutions. He uses the space in the saw stand. It is a very nice compact design.
The site also contains photos of a couple of completed projects. The boot bench and CD cabinet are very nice!
BT3 Central has a huge collection of very useful articles for your BT-3000. Articles cover topics such as general information, repair and maintenance, modifications, table saw jigs, etc. Currently the section that I am very interested in is the ‘mobile bt3s’. One of my up coming projects is to build a mobile base for my BT-3000 replacing the existing fixed stand. The mobile base will support the extension rails and table. The space underneath will be filled with drawers and a cabinet for maximum storage.
As for forums, check out Ryobi Tools Forum. It has lots of topics and threads dealing with the BT-3000 and BT-3100.
Looking for ideas for shop furniture and cabinets? They have plans for a mobile table saw cabinet. Not for a Ryobi BT-3000; however, the plan can be easily modified to fit your table saw. Includes plans for a miter saw work station with lengthy tables flanking the saw to provide plenty of support for cutting really long stock.
Wednesday, November 15th 2006
posted @ 9:25 pm in [ Home Shop -
Tools -
air compressor ]
There are several different materials available to consider, black pipe, copper, PVC, rubber hose, etc. Each material has its strengths and weaknesses.
Black pipe typically comes in 20’, 10’ and nipple lengths. Consider purchasing from a local plumbing supply house. They typically they carry a better quality of pipe than the local home supply store.
A draw back of black pipe is water and rust. Really, there is only some much that one can do to dry the air. Unfortunately a percentage water does travel in the air stream and will be deposited on the inside of the line. Over time the inside of the line will rust. The question is how long it will take until the rust weakness the wall. Usually a compressor tank will rust out sooner than the air piping.
Tip: Install a tee on the pipe before it transitions to a horizontal run. Have the leg of the tee pointing down. Cap off the end or put a full flow ball valve on the end of the nipple. It will serve a couple of purposes. First, it will help trap debris in the line before it jams your air tool. Second, it will act as a water drain.
Black pipe takes some time and effort to install. It will be necessary to cut and thread the pipe. This will require either having determined before hand, and having the material cut and threaded at the store. Or, rent a pipe threader, manual or powered. Side note, growing up I have cut threads on black and galvanized pipe that was being run for the natural gas lines in a new home (teenage summer job). Cutting threads with a manual tool is not that hard to do; however, power threaders are nice.
Copper is a nice material to use for air distribution system. It is easier to install than black pipe. It does not rust. It will handle the pressure a home air compressor puts out. If the copper tubing fails it will fatigue and bulge out instead of bursting with shrapnel.
Type L and K copper pipe is acceptable for compressed air applications. Type M is NOT. Type M is usually used in residential homes for the fresh water supply lines. The pressure that a copper pipe can handle is dependant on the temperature and the size of the pipe - for more information, see Table 6, Publication 28E, of the CCBDA. The joints are usually rated for less pressure than the pipe.
PVC pipe is very attractive for the home wood worker. It is low cost, easy to install and does not rust. Here is the big problem with it. If / when the pipe ruptures it will send sharp shards of plastic flying and can injure a person. The last thing that you want to have happen is the pipe to fail when your child is in the wood shop with dad. Check out this OSHA bulletin for more information.
I have seen home wood shops that string rubber air hoses along the walls of the shop. The draw back to this solution is that cutting the air hose is not an option since special tools are needed to crimp a fitting on the end. So, what to do? Well just coil up the excess tubing and all is well. Well…. Not really, for each bend in the air line adds turbulence and increases the static air pressure in the line. Thus there will be a significant drop in air pressure at the tool end of the hose compared to the setting on the air compressor’s regulator.
Tuesday, November 14th 2006
posted @ 9:27 am in [ Ryobi -
Table Saw -
Tools ]
I purchased my BT-3000 used through the newspaper classifies. The owner had upgraded to a Delta cabinet saw. Not within my budget, at least not yet. Along with the purchase came the extension rails and table. He threw in a set of zero tolerance throat plates.
From other owners I have been told that the motor is under powered. It is basically a 15 amp single phase motor. I have cut 3/4” red oak with the stock blade. It cuts ok, but not the feed rate is slower.
I am going to replace the stock saw blade with a freud 10” Diablo thin kerf blade. The Diablo series is coated with an anti-friction material. Coupled with the thinner kerf than the stock blade I should be able to get back some performance.
The saw sits on a fixed light weight metal stand. One of my next projects will be to build a mobile table saw cabinet that can be lowered when in use.
The design is fairly simple rectangle with the table saw sitting on the left hand side. The cabinet will be long enough to support the extension table and rails. Underneath table saw will be a cabinet and underneath the extension table and rails will be a set of drawers.
I will post more details as is design the cabinet and build it.
Sunday, November 12th 2006
posted @ 10:13 pm in [ Delta -
Joiner -
Tools ]
As I continue working with the rough stock I have been using the table saw to clean up the joint for glue up joints. I have been looking at several different joiners from table tops to full stand units. I am seriously considering the delta 6” professional joiner model 37-195.
One of my main requirements is a relatively small foot print. The delta joiner’s base is 13” by 18” by 26”. The in feed table is 22” long and the out feed table is 22 1/2” long. This results in over a 44” long table surface. This table size provides support for joining up to seven foot long boards. The base cabinet has built in dust collection chute. The chute port is accepts a four inch dust collection hose. For more information read the thorough review of the delta joiner at new woodworker.
Friday, November 10th 2006
posted @ 9:50 am in [ Joiner -
Tools -
bench top planer ]
The beauty of carbide tipped blades is that they can be sharpened many times before they need to be replaced. Depending on the quality of the saw blade sometimes it is cheaper to buy a replacement blade than sharpen it. But that is a whole different discussion.
In my area there are a couple of tool sharpening services. The typical turn around time is seven days. Drop it off on a Wednesday and pick it up the following Wednesday. Not bad a bad deal. The prices are pretty good for the small blades with a low number of teeth. All saw blades over 10” in diameter they charge per tooth. For my 80 tooth 12” miter saw blade the sharpening cost would be over $33!
That was a bit too much for me, so I started a quest to find information and tools to sharpen my carbide saw blades myself. Surprisingly there isn’t a whole lot of useful information on this topic. I found an interesting article discussing sharpening carbide tipped tools on ask me help desk site.
I purchased a set of diamond paddle hones from Rockler.com.
I have so far sharpened a 12” forty tooth miter saw blade. The difference in cutting is like night and day! The ‘sharpened’ saw blade cuts so much better.
Next I am planning on sharpening the 12” 80 tooth saw blade. Upon inspection I noticed that the teeth are covered in what appears to be a fair amount of resin build up. First I will clean it off with an orange based stripper and then see if the saw blade needs to be sharpened.
Thursday, November 9th 2006
posted @ 8:36 pm in [ Lumber -
Pressure Treated ]
Lumber that has been treated with Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA) will over time leach out arsenic. There are many outdoor play scapes, sand boxes, fences, and picnic tables that have been constructed with pressure treated lumber over the past decades.
How concerned should a parent be? Pressure treated lumber new and older boards (those in use for several years) both leach significant amounts of arsenic to the surface of the wood. Arsenic on the surface of the wood is easily transferred to the skin. Young children, especially under the age of 6 tend to have frequent hand to mount interaction increase the likelihood of swallowing some of the arsenic. Also, children under the age of 6 tend to spend prolonged hours on playground structures and tend to play under the structure for extended periods of time.
What can be done to reduce the effects? For existing structures built from CCA materials, the best way to minimize the arsenic leaching is to seal the wood every two years. Applying the proper sealant will help reduce the wood from cracking and splintering, it can also greatly decrease the amount of arsenic leaching from the wood. Talk with your local home improvement store about available coatings.
Hand washing is effective in reducing the exposure to arsenic, but this is only practical after the child is done playing on the structure. Sealants are the best way of protecting children from the arsenic exposure.
Wednesday, November 8th 2006
posted @ 11:23 pm in [ Table Saw -
Tools ]
Contractor style saws are a great medium level table saw. For the home wood worker, a good contractor table saw will provide years of reliable use and have enough horse power to cut through most wood stock.
There are many different manufactures of contractor saws. Most all have the same basic feature set with differences typically being in the quality of the fence system, expansion leaves, rolling base, etc. There is one company that offers a significant different feature, automatically stopping a spinning saw blade, when someone accidentally comes in contact with it.
A year ago a wood working buddy of mine lost 2/3 of his left index finger to a table saw accident. He was ripping a 4” by 6’ board on his contractor style table saw. The board binded the blade and was kicked up at his face. He instinctively blocked the board with his left hand and pushed it down toward the table saw. Had he owned a SawStop brand table saw his injury would have been minor at worst requiring a band aid instead of an emergency trip to the emergency room. Check out StopSaw’s web site for more information on their saw blade stopping technology.
In late 2006 SawStop is going to be releasing a contractor style table saw with their saw blade stopping technology. I am curious to find out what the price is and the quality of the table saw.
Monday, November 6th 2006
posted @ 7:27 pm in [ Lumber -
Pressure Treated -
Wood Working ]
For decades pressure treated lumber was treated with chromated copper arsenate (CCA) to prevent rot, fungus, and insect attacking the wood. The chemical treatment worked so well in preventing the wood from decay that it was quickly used in a variety of projects such as decks, fences, play structures, picnic tables, docks, and framing garden beds. On February 12, 2002 the EPA announced a voluntary decision by the industry to discontinue the consumer use of CCA treated lumber.
Pressure treated lumber is dipped into a bath of CCA and subjected to high pressure. This would force the chemical solution into the lumber. However, this process does not lock the chemical into the lumber. Over time some of the arsenic leaches out of the wood into the surrounding environment. In a typical application of pressure treated lumber in a deck, the posts that are buried in soil begin to release the arsenic into the soil. Arsenic would be released from the lumber when exposed to rain. The amount of arsenic leaching out of the wood is enough to contaminate the surfaces around and under the structure.
Few people, especially the home wood worker did not fully understand nor take into account the potential hazards of chemical treatment. The most toxic chemical in the treatment formulation is arsenic. Arsenic a known human carcinogen that is toxic to the skin and internal organs. Typically it takes years of exposure for the effects to manifest themselves.
When handling and working with pressure treated lumber there are several precautions to take to reduce your exposure to the harmful chemicals.
- Saw, sand, and machine CCA treated wood outdoors. Wear a dust mask, goggles, and gloves.
- Clean up all sawdust, scraps, and other construction debris thoroughly and dispose of it in the trash (municipal solid waste). Do not compost or mulch sawdust or remnants from CCA treated wood.
- Do not burn CCA treated wood because toxic chemicals may be released as part of the smoke and ashes.
- After working with the wood, wash all exposed areas of your body, especially the hands, thoroughly with soap and water before eating, drinking, or using the bathroom.
- Wash your work clothes separately from other household clothing before wearing them again.
Today pressure treated lumber is treated with either alkaline copper quaternary (ACQ) or copper boron azole (CBA). At your local home improvement store, check the label on the pressure treated lumber to see which method was used to treat it. Follow the manufacture’s guide lines on handling the material to reduce your exposure to harmful chemicals.
Saturday, November 4th 2006
posted @ 7:32 pm in [ Tools ]
You need one! It is kind of hard to power the pneumatic tools without one.
There are several different types of air compressors on the market from oiled, oil less, to pancake. The oiled compressors have a separate motor and compressor units on top of the tank. The compressor’s piston and crank shaft run in an oil bath, much like your car’s motor. The oil needs to be changed periodically. The oiled compressors are designed to last longer and run quieter than the oil less siblings.
There is a wide variety of models and capacities of oil less compressors, from tank less portable air compressors to 13 gallon units. Oil less air compressor has motor is mated directly to the air compressing unit. They typically run louder than their oiled counter parts.
For my wood shop I went with the Campbell Hausfeld 13 gallon oil less air compressor. It has enough SCFM (standard cubic foot (feet) per minute) to drive a Pasload framing nail gun. And has plenty of capacity for driving my various nail guns. The compressor is quite loud when running. It takes less than 2 minutes to fully charge the tank.
The original drain valve had a wing like design. The problem I had with it is, after I had been using it, I had to use a pair of pliers to open it up. After about a year the wing broke off. I replaced it with a better valve that I can loosen by hand without having to use pliers.
All tank air compressors require that the water be drained out after use. Please do this! If one does not drain the water after use it will cause the bottom of the tank to rust, from the inside, and will eventually lead to a structural failure of the tank. I would hate to image what happens when a fully charged 13 gallon tank ruptures.
Thursday, November 2nd 2006
posted @ 8:14 pm in [ Nail Gun -
Porter Cable -
Tools ]
I learned wood working from my father. Back in the day, this wasn’t that long ago, every nail was driven by hand! Oh boy the fun that caused. Imagine you trying to nail two 3/4 inch pieces of plywood that have been beveled at 45 degrees and you are nailing on the joint. While pounding on the nail the two pieces slip just a little bit. Augh!!!
Fast forward about 16 years to when I began to set up my home wood shop. The first nail gun that I purchased was the Porter Cable BN200. It is an 18 gauge brad nailer that handles brads from 3/4” to 2” in length.
My needs at that time where quite simple, I was working on small to medium wood working projects and needed a basic easy to use brad nailer. The price to performance of this tool is excellent. The nailer is well balanced and light weight. I think it weighs in at 4 pounds.
The biggest complaint that I have is that I have gone through three sets of O rings. Yes, I use pneumatic oil early and often.
The next nail gun I added to my collection is a Porter Cable NS100A 1/4” crown stapler. I got a good deal from Amazon around Christmas 2000. It handles staples from 1/2” to 1”. It is a light weight tool weighing in at around 4 pounds. It has an adjustable exhaust port, nice for us left handed wood workers!
The latest addition is a Duo-Fast DAFN-6480 16 gauge angle finish nailer. I purchased it off of eBay three years ago. I am not sure exactly when it was manufactured. It is a heavier nailer weighing in at about 8 pounds. However, my wife can easily hold it in one hand and operate it. It has an adjustable exhaust port.
My dad still drives nails by hand. Go figure.
Wednesday, November 1st 2006
posted @ 7:58 pm in [ Wood Working Projects ]
Our master bathroom has 9’ ceilings, which gives a nice lofty feeling to a small space. The changing area is about 7’ by 8’ with a 7’ vanity on one side and doors to the closets and bath tub / toilet on the other two walls. It has a nice 42” inch tall mirror that runs the length of the vanity and a Hollywood style light fixture over the mirror, after that nothing but open space to the ceiling.
To give us more storage space I built a set of two cabinets that run the length of the wall over the vanity. The cabinets are 18” deep and 20” tall and two doors per cabinet. The cabinets are anchored to the wall with 2 1/2” #10 screws. I drove screws into the top plate and the studs.
I removed the light fixture and put a set of six cabinet mounted halogen lights on the underside of the cabinet. These lights run on 110V and are fully dimmable. The lights are mounted on the bottom of the cabinet facing down toward the counter. I used six lights for our 7’ wide vanity. The counter is beautifully illuminated. The biggest down side is that the lights do not illuminate the face as well. This is something that you should consider when considering the lighting for your bathroom.
Something else to pay attention to is the clearance between the ceiling fan and the cabinet. When the ceiling fan was off there was just enough space to open the door when the fan blade was positioned just so. Well, that lasted all of about a week before accidentally one of the cabinet doors was opened while the fan was running. As you can imagine, there was a rather loud noise and the fan blade was bent. 40 dollars later and a shorter down rod fixed this problem. Now the ceiling fan’s blades are about four inches above the top of the cabinet’s doors.